What to do in Ecuador

Running along a stretch of the Trans-Andean railroad, the Devil’s Nose Train has been referred to as “one of the finest and most daring feats of engineering.”  It’s something you can feel in the ride which travels from the town of Alausi on a 45-minute journey to Silambe through breath-taking mountain scenery with the train descending nearly two-thirds of a mile in height. It’s even more impressive considering it was built just after the turn of the 20th-century. Construction on the line began in 1872 and was completed in 1905, connecting parts of Ecuador’s northern coast to the Andean region before continuing south to Cuenca. While some of those sections no longer function, the main route between Quito and Guayaquil was refurbished in 2007. Taking the entire thing is very expensive but the segment between Alausi and Silambe is affordable and the most exciting part by far.

Cunenca may be most famous for its colonial architecture, with the entire city a UNESCO World Heritage Site sitting at 8,200 feet in elevation. The streets are filled with art and culture, but for those looking for a great hat, you’ll want to head to the Panama hat factory. While you might think Panama hats come from Panama, they’re actually made right here, made from a variety of palm straw known as Carloduvica Palmata, which is where it gets its name. The hat has deep ancestral roots with aborigines along the coast using tocas made from toquilla straw to protect themselves from the sun. The lightness of the fibre made the straw ideal for making the hats that have become a symbol for Ecuador. Homer Ortega is a producer in Cunenca that offers tours, the opportunity to purchase, and even a museum where you can learn more about the hats and their history.

Canoeing through the Amazon provides an entirely different perspective of the rainforest. In fact, it may be the best way to explore the region, serenely gliding through the dark, mysterious waters surrendering your senses to the soundtrack of the jungle. While the Amazon River itself flows through six provinces in Ecuador, most trips are taken on one of its many tributaries like the Napo River east of Coca. The Napo River is flanked by the Yasuni, Cuyabeno, and Limoncocha Reserves, with many wildlife watching opportunities right in and around the river itself. A stay in one of the multiple rainforest lodges is the best way to do it, with the excursions typically included. Sani Lodge is run by a local indigenous tribe and includes many activities like canoeing. You’ll even be picked up at Coca airport for the long journey by canoe to reach the lodge